Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Scuzzy Boulders in the Middle of Nowhere

I have this unusual desire to climb short routes that inspire me.  It's not that I dislike long routes, it's just that, well, those little ones were there.  This has led to comments like, "That area is total crap,"  and "Why would you waste your time on that?"  The answer is this: the joy comes from the movement, and the problems were good.  It is very easy to get caught up in climbing harder, longer, more dangerous routes, but sooner or later, the sport itself will own you, and the joy will be gone.  I like to push people when climbing, but I have two mottos: "Live to climb another day," and "Feel free to keep trying until you're not having fun anymore (or it gets dark)."  Climbing has some really strange ethics that are held fast by different sects within the climbing community.  For instance: if you stopped to rest, it didn't count, or if your toe touched the ground, it didn't count.  If you clipped bolts anywhere on the route, it didn't count.  If you used a chipped hold, it didn't count.  If you aided any part of the route, it didn't count.  If you took any falls, it didn't count.  If you used chalk, it didn't count.  If you used pitons, it didn't count.  If it took two days, it didn't count.  If you smiled, it didn't count.  I suppose that everyone is entitled to their opinion, but are we still having fun?  Does it have to count?  If I have to choose between having it count at any cost and enjoying the experience, I choose fun.  Some photos of the short route "total crap" insanity:
Josh on Highway To Hell 5.10b

Dave on Poor Man's Pedicure 5.10c

Me on Tomb Grooming For Tut 5.9

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